Joined: 09 Aug 2006
|Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 8:21 pm Post subject: Some Paris restaurants
|Hello folks, my wife and I recently returned from a trip to Paris for our seventh anniversary. We're both huge fans of French cooking, esp bistro/
cuisine bourgeouise; here are some nice places we found. (My snarky comments on Helene Darroze are in another thread)
The names of the dishes are in English -- I can't locate the notebook where I wrote French names/notes! Urgg, I'm a moron. But you'll be able to figure it out...
Les Philosophes, rue Vieille du Temple, Marais: great tomato Tarte Tatin, first rate duck confit with a honey sauce.
Le Coude Fou, also in the Marais, on rue du Bourg Tibourg -- Try the sweetbreads plat. Great Tarte Tatin.
Also in the Marais I can happily recommend Caron de Beaumarchais as a hotel, it's on rue Vieille du Temple.
Au Pere Louis, rue Monsier le Prince, 6th Arond: great salad with chicken gizzards, and the best cassoulet I've ever had. Even beat out Alain Dutronnier's at Au Trou Gascon I had two years ago. Thick, rick sauce, perfect mingling of duckl/sausage flavors. (My friend Stephane Wrembel, a native of Fountainbleau, swears to me the best cassoulet ever is at a place called Quercy in the Cobble Hill section of Brooklyn. I plan to test his theory next week)
Le Comptoir, 9 carrefour de l'Odeon in 6th arond: -- we stumbled across this by accident, saw a big line of locals and figured it had to be good. It was. First rate charcuterie platter )esp the pate in a clay opot), melt in your mouth braised beed cheeks, wonderful rack of lamd. "Like buttah!" Through the magic of the Internet I've since learned it's run by Yves Camdeborde, of whom I knew nothing but now want to know more. Toques off to you, Yves.
Not French, but interesting is Knyaz Igor, a Russian place on 43 av. de la bourdonnais in the 7th. We went to see Moreno, a legendary gypsy jazz guitarist (style of Django Reinhardt) who has a regular Sunday gig there. Matter of fact, when we called to make reservations (my wife speaks fluent French) the waitress said, "Wanna tawk to Moreno?" and put him on the line. He and my wife shot the breeze for about five minutes. Well, Moreno wasn't there -- called away to a gig in Bulgaria. The lives of gypsy jazz guitarists are fraught with uncertainty. As are the lives of their fans. The B-team was a Russian couple doing Russian folk songs. Good stuff till a really drunk Russian woman, with her minder, a guy with a physiognomy suggesting he'd been booted from the KGB for brutality, showed took the table beside us. She pounded vodka and sang along, weeping at (I assume) the memory of lost loves; he drank scotch after scotch and smoked Belomorkanals.
We also visited Aux Lyonnais. Both had the chicken with crayfish sauce, and it was an odd experience. The sauce was thin and rather tasteless, the chicken a bit gamey and the crayfish soggy. I've cooked this before from a Paul Bocuse receipe, had a much different outcome -- fairly rich and flavorful. Not sure what happened there. But great entrees (cream of mushroom soup with sausage) and desserts (souffle) so I would definitely try again.