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Lilia's Trip - continuation...

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Lilia Dignan

Joined: 23 Mar 2005
Posts: 159
Location: San Francisco

PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 8:41 pm    Post subject: Lilia's Trip - continuation... Reply with quote

Sorry, these reports are long...... I'm on a roll

Day 6, November 4 –
Nice, cool , brisk Sunday morning! On the way to La Messe Gregorienne at Notre Dame, stopped at the Marché Brocante at Place Maubert. Found a pair of long benches to go along a kitchen table for 150 euros (for the bench only) which I thought would be a good buy if I have an apartment on bd. Saint Germain. Didn’t I notice one for sale yesterday which is nearby but all I got was a dirty look from you know who.

Mass is at 10:00 am and we walked in through the back gardens along the seine side to go to the front. We sat on the left side to take advantage of being able to gaze at the South Rose Window. It was beginning to clear so we caught the perfect light. Tom got his first wish – the second wish came shortly after – his angel arrived again, the same angel who appeared during our February 2006 trip. He was so engrossed (the first time) looking at the Rose window with the sun shining through that he wasn’t paying attention to the mass, then this beautiful blonde in a French blue choir gown appeared and started singing with such heavenly voice. He thought he died and woke up in heaven! She is now the Matrisse of Notre Dame de Paris Choir. After mass, I love walking out through the big open front doors, the only time they are open is after each mass with the light streaming in, it feels like I’m on my way to heaven.

On to Le Comptoir, 9 Carrefour de l’Odeon, 6th arriving just before noon via Place Dauphine. No reservations, one has to stand in line to get a table but it opens at noon , so we’re sure to get one right away. We got a nice window table inside – great for people watching.
- Cochonnailles de famillle (assorted Lyonaise charcuterie plate with cracklings & condiments)
- Tripes Bearnaise (for Tom who loves the more unusual offerings)
- Tournedos de confit de canard (the confit was deboned and re-shaped like at tournedo then grilled – served with a glaze and assorted young vegetables)
- Crème de Riz au lait avec peches
- Café avec nougat Richard (What? No caramels from Jacques Genin! I ask the girl serving but she just smiled and said they are serving nougat this time)
- Une bouteille de Crozes-Hermitage Le Printemps (a young, fruity wine from the Cote-du-Rhone area)
- Total 97.80 euros
The rest of the afternoon was spent at La Fontaine de Marie Medici at the Jardin du Luxembourg amidst the ducks swimming in the pond. The sun shines through the trees. Quiet and relaxing! On the way back, checked out Fish at 69, rue de Seine for a light dinner later in the evening.

After a late afternoon siesta, the old, tired bodies gave out – decided to finish reading the English paper and eat from Pierre Hermé macarons box:
- Rose
- Mogador (passion fruit and milk chocolate)
- Marrons et The vert Macha (chestnut and green tea Matcha)
- Plénitude (chocolat and caramel)
- Truffe Blanche et Noisette (Exotic – very unusual – I like the flavor of white truffle – very earthy but I’m not quite sure I care for it with my desserts)
- Huile d’Olive et Vanille
Of course, we have the extra Ispahan (macaron Rose avec crème de Litchi et framboise, garni par framboise et une petale de rose rouge – extraordinaire!)
Bonne Nuit!

Day 7, November 5 - Started out with scattered fog. Bits of sunshine starts peeking out of thje sky – slowly – in time for how slow I was sipping my café crème. The tops of the building began to be bathed in glorious light. By the way, the breakfast in the hotel is very good but I only need a light French breakfast, coffee, croissant, orange juice and sometimes a piece of tartine. They also serve yogurt, toast, chocolate, tea, some cheese and choice of confiture and honey for the tea.

This is shopping day. First stop: Cité Pharmacie, 26, rue du Four. 6eme. I go to Multi Change on rue de Rennes to exchange some dollars. I have befriended some Filipino people working here and it is like saying hello to friends one hasn’t seen for sometime. Had to stop at Montparnasse Monoprix (Inno). This is the only place I know that carries the Francois Doucet Noisettes de la Forets that I love. Picked up some tablettes de chocolat (assorted ones) and some fleur de sel de Camargue and d’Ile de Noirmoutier, add a condiment or two and more confiseries and soon, les paquets sont tres lourds. Time to drop them off the hotel. Through the Luxembourg – these errands have to be transported through scenic routes. Are there any other way? These articles are to become special gifts on arrival back to the US, they deserve to be treated royally. Would your chocolates be happy just taking some non-descript streets? Mine would be complaining san cesse and what headache that would make! How can one buy more goodies if you don’t take the ones you have back first. The sun was shining – nobody notices the aching feel and shoulders sagging.

What a surprise! Tom was reading the paper at the lobby! Fish on rue de Seine sounded good but today being Monday, it is closed. He wanted to eat at Le Comptoir again. By the way, this is owned and run by Yves Camdeborde, ancien chef at Les Ambassadeurs, Crillon Hotel during the time of Christian Constant. After a few minutes wait, we secured a table.
- Salade de Saint Jacques poelé (sautéed scallop salade)
- Crème de Marron celeri et foie gras (cream of chestnut soup with celery and chunks of foie gras – yummm)
- Cochon de Lait aux Lentille (suckling pig with lentils)
- Café
- Une Bouteille “Bugey Cerdon” Rosé Petillant (Sparkling Rosé)
- 102.50 euros
- Proved to be another excellent meal
Hubby sat at the Luxembourg to enjoy the afternoon sun. I ventured to the grands magazines to look around and to Lafayette Gourmet for more foodie goodies. How can one not be happy as one looks at mounds of spices, herbes and different salts and surrounded by Laduree, Sadaharu Aoki, hundreds of bottles of wines, all those Iberico hams, all kinds of teas and coffees, jams, chocolates all tucked in this not so huge store. Armed with a shopping cart which began to fill up with more specialy salts, confiture de Noel, Thé de Noel, more chocolates, caramels, mustards and my shoulders asking me who are going to carry those things back. They are close to a rioting mood if I didn’t stop right then. Luckilly, I found that I had some metro tickets left over from the year before. OK, the autobus it is. Rioting shoulders averted – this time! Now to face hubby’s question of how to get these home.

A romantic evening walk “le long de la Seine” is in order. I believe that romance should not be wasted on the young alone. Stopped by Les Bouquinistes to reserve a table to next day’s lunch. Continued on the quais and leisurely watched the boats on the Seine and the lit monuments. Turned on rue du Bac and enjoyed the quartier Saint Germain. Walking the streets of Paris seems like a feast each time we do it especially when doing it leisurely without any time constraints – no rush to be somewhere at a certain time. Another good day!

Day 8, November 6 - A little rain in the night just enough to wet the streets – gone by morning. Went to Place Maubert market to buy some grapes and figs for later snacking. They were still setting up so there’s not much buying to be done. Then after breakfast, took Bus No. 63 across the street to Place de l’Alma. Stopped by 5, rue Debrousse (this was our first apartment in Paris). It is being remodeled so the whole front is covered. Walked Avenue Montaigne and enjoyed looking at the couture houses. I like Valentino windows the best.

Champs Elysees is being prepared for 11 Novembre. I see lots of security people around. There are fewer tourists around. It is so enjoyable strolling one side and down the other with a little stop at Fouquets for some morning coffee. Reaching the Place de la Concorde, decided to take rue Boissy d’Anglas to Faubourg Saint Honore crossing rue Royale to the other side which becomes rue Saint Honore – turned right on rue Castiglione with a peek at Place Vendome to the Jardin des Tuileries, enjoying this scenic route on the way to lunch at Les Bouquinistes, 53 quai des Grands Augustins for a 1:00 o’clock reservation.
- 2 Coupes de Champagne Guy Savoy
- Salade Mesclun
- Ravioles de Tourteau aux homard (Wow – big chunks of lobsters)
- Bar a la Plancha
- Saumon d’Ecosse
- 1 verre Sancerre blanc
- 2 verres Beaune du Chateau
- Dessert – autour du chocolat (came in three different forms of chocolate desserts surrounded by a light crème anglaise
- 1 verre Grappa Veneta (great tasting grappa – smells heavenly, too)
- 1 café serve avec truffes
- All for 154 euros
It is now 4:30 and the sun still shines. Magnificent Notre Dame beckons. Another perfect time for a South Rose Window watching and enjoy. Satiated, no more dining was done for today!
"A man hath no better thing under the sun than to eat, and to drink, and to be merry."
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Joined: 30 Sep 2004
Posts: 1855
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah lilia---here's to romance at any age!!

And I'm just salivating reading your menus.
Vivant Linguae Mortuae!!
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Joined: 10 Mar 2008
Posts: 2
Location: Paris, France

PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am discovering so many great places in Paris from reading these posts and receiving confirmation that I have already been seeking out some of the best places!

I had the pleasure of lunch at Le Comptoir this weekend and the food was excellent. The bread was sublime, but I forgot to ask what bakery provides it for them. Anyone know?
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